Heybeliada

Heybeliada is the second largest of the Princes’ Islands after Büyükada. Its name, meaning “Saddlebags Island,” comes from its shape—when viewed from a distance, the island resembles a saddlebag resting on the ground. Known as one of Istanbul’s most beloved resort destinations, Heybeliada attracts visitors not only with its natural beauty, clean air, and serene atmosphere but also with its historical and cultural institutions such as the Naval Academy, the Sanatorium, and the Halki Seminary (Theological School).

Today, the island’s permanent population is around 7,000. However, during the summer months, this number increases several times, often exceeding 50,000 with day-trippers included.

Ferry transportation to Heybeliada began in the mid-19th century, as with the other islands. In the 19th century, the island was home to many wealthy Greek families, along with a significant Turkish population due to the presence of the Naval Academy. While the population was recorded as around 800 in 1820, it rose to 2,000 after the introduction of regular ferry services. Following a period of decline during the War of Independence and population exchanges, Heybeliada began to regain its vitality in the 1950s.

The island measures approximately 2,700 meters in width and 1,200 meters in length. Comprising four main hills, Heybeliada is centrally located among the Istanbul islands. Its highest point is Değirmentepe (136 meters), followed by Taşocağı Hill, Makarios Hill, and Ümit Hill. The last of these, formerly known as Papaz Hill (85 meters), is home to the historic Halki Seminary. The island also has four harbors, the most notable being Çam Harbor—situated in a beautiful bay—and the Naval Harbor.

Heybeliada is home to several significant landmarks, including the Turkish Naval Academy, the Ayia Euphēmia Spring, Turkey’s first sanatorium (founded in 1924), the Hüseyin Rahmi Gürpınar High School—named after one of the island’s famous residents—Abbas Halim Pasha Mansion, and various religious and official buildings.

During the summer months, visitors can enjoy traditional carriage or donkey tours along the island’s two scenic routes, known as the “Big Tour” and the “Small Tour,” the latter also referred to as the “Lovers’ Route.” Like the other Princes’ Islands, Heybeliada is free of motor vehicles, preserving its peaceful and nostalgic atmosphere.

According to Evliya Çelebi’s travel notes, during the Ottoman period the island was guarded by a Bostancıbaşı (head gardener) and a few soldiers, with its revenues allocated to the Kapudan Pasha (Grand Admiral).

Heybeliada has long inspired Turkish writers and artists. The celebrated author Ahmed Rasim, who wrote extensively about Istanbul, is buried here, although he did not dedicate a specific work to the island. His nephew, Yesari Asım, immortalized the island in his famous song “Biz Heybeli’de her gece mehtaba çıkardık” (“Every Night on Heybeli We Would Gaze at the Moon”). Other prominent authors, including Aziz Nesin and Zeyyat Selimoğlu, have also vividly depicted Heybeliada in their works.